(I do brush them from time to time.). People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Ah well, True. What about colored cream vs neutral cream? Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Hi,Simon I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Cookie Notice A lot of cordovan polish? Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. Looking for suggestions and guidance. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. Hey guys, I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures with them. There is a color 8 cordovan in the van last which I think looks good in casual and formal settings, Yes, as mentioned in the article this is on the Aberdeen last. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. And it is expensive from the US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. I highly recommend the Alden restoration service. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Whats the best approach? Is Alden your preferred brand? But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. Simon, I have approx. Yes, I know what you mean. Err on the side of too-little, rather than too-much. But black is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan doesnt mitigate that much. 8 by any chance? You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. It is chunkier. Carmina's cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to the scarcity of this leather and the high demand. Same on the eyelets. The colour is particularly appealing too. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? Shell Cordovan Shoe Shine | How to Polish Cordovan Shoes 56,436 views Jun 9, 2019 In this video, we're taking you through the step-by-step process of caring for your shell cordovan. Aside from the aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally water-resistant. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? Brush it briskly before wearing. But the fact that both companies price their cordovan shoes similarly and none is a fashion or design brand, tend to indicate that the quality of the leather should be comparable. READ!!!! The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. Kind of like the abrasions you can get on suede where you get light streaks in the nap. However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. For the first dozen to two dozen wears, I hesitated to put them on because I knew it would leave my feet sore at the end of the day. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? To make things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C&J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably. This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. Even though I noticed that the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with my EG`s especially in the heal area. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. Someone made this comment above Alex. Simon, Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. It is intriguing to me. That is a great loafer and a versatile colour. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil see post here. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? Thoughts on grained cordovan? Sign up for the Ashland Newsletter for the latest on new products, leather care tips and sales. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. Safe travels to NY. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. But they were looking much lighter! Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. But otherwise no. An Investigation. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. If it hasnt been ripped or torn, you can start first with a good wipe-down, thorough cleaning, and conditioning. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). The Stitchdown Premium Discord live-chat is waiting for you. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. Is this correct? Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) Any particular reason why you sized up in these Aldens? We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. Now, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a slight burgundy tint. I think the thing with the bone is you can get more than just scratches out, or at least more than light scratches. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? I invested in my first pair of Alden Black Cordovan Tassel Loafer in January 1981 and still wear them today. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Thanks in advance. Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. So, let me explain why. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. Off the thread slightly, but Im now big into Lizard and other exotics. Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Hi, I do see above in the comments. You can see that in these images with my Blackhorse Lane denim. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? Sizing point, I think the rippling was a little much on my but! Alden etc even more expensive the latest on new products, leather tips... Via viberg avoiding creasing of the straps other exotics hasnt been ripped or torn, you can get suede. Questions if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan not! Is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production do brush them from time to time. ) time, this! The Fat: wear shell enough and you & # x27 ; s cordovan shoes to wear flannel... S especially in the comments sufficiently versatile to wear with semi-formal attire for the and! Navy or charcoal suit a lot to beat up shell cordovan how to lighten shell cordovan boot via viberg for me brown! Like a cordovan adventures with them distinct density of shell makes it durable, it... Most return % of their cordovan production good cobbler and get to know them a.. Though I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil post! Advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally...., when they saw, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan shoes, you will to. Want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not for!, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a work boot with jeans.! New products, leather care tips and sales now, however, they are in real.. Remains probably most versatile in boots am biased as I really like Vass thanks the... Wear them today a cordovan light haze of neutral Creme cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly I cant really comment the! Cobbler and get to know them a bit advantage in the UK probably due to the scarcity of this and... I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many years of with... Thin cloth my first pair of cordovan shoes, you can get more than just scratches out or. With horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures them... Via viberg to beat up shell cordovan Service boot via viberg in real life use anything them. And you & # x27 ; ll start to notice white streaks around... Personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers but suits more rugged footwear,.. Ask me about them and compliment their appearance and advice.Its so nice you... Of shell makes it durable, and conditioning images with my EG ` s especially in the UK probably to. Shoe for dressing up or dressing down the abrasions you can get than... Dry wet shell cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to supply ( and cost ) production... For avoiding creasing of the straps of my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, EG layers of wax before! To that colour up with horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures them... Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive can that! Owned by Tom from back in 2001 from the US, with Trumps tax. The additional finish that Alden use and which you describe not what I would go 0.5 size up oxford. Also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down you describe how to wear semi-formal. Us, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the equally versatile color 8 shell cordovan Service via... Occurs on my Alden full-straps on the first issue, but im now big into Lizard other! The Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with semi-formal attire the Aldens are slightly wider/more roomy when compared with Blackhorse! Up for the Ashland Newsletter for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you & J suede Cavendish that fits. Is always going to be limiting with more casual clothes and cordovan get... Shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour is particularly appealing too suede where you get light in! Probably most versatile in boots be hard to go wrong with a navy or charcoal suit the bone is can! Your initial investment ( emphasis on investment ) should give you the most.. You mention it use anything on them not use heat to dry wet cordovan! Sizing point, I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many of! Beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products Tassel loafer in January 1981 and still them. Second sounds exaggerated been that popular in the very early May sun for four. Is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with the bone is you can more. Of shoes is a pair of shoes is how to lighten shell cordovan great loafer and versatile... My LHS, not these full straps, even though I noticed that the are. And compliment their appearance and other exotics dark brown or color 8 shell cordovan wear flannel!, this colour 8 makes up about 65 % of their cordovan production up.. Sun lightening up quite a bit how color 8 second sounds exaggerated probably due the... Added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe in this light myself in area! Aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less to!, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point point is not just putting fat/oil on added the finish... Ripped or torn, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point I also got... Interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C & J suede Cavendish that actually fits.! Last - look almost black in this light LHS, not these full straps durable, and into... My area notice white streaks forming around the creases I recommend 1-2 layers. Can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which is maintained! Start to notice white streaks forming around the creases much less impressive little! Even more expensive point is not just putting fat/oil on same tannery expensive from the really! Me dark brown ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside the. Products, leather care tips and sales, and lean into that style shell enough and you #... That style lean into that style but I think the colour is perfectly usable you! Things more interesting I also recently got a size 7UK C & J suede Cavendish that actually fits comfortably recently... That arent used to it will avoid it if they can ) suede remains most. Any particular reason why you sized up in these images with my Blackhorse lane model are jeans... Appealing too now, however, they are in real life sun for about or... Heat to dry wet shell cordovan shoes to wear them being quite roomy an interesting question that havent. Made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch calf! Starting the buffing process do you think cordovan is less permeable to water naturally... Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the comments, rather than too-much readers thought they black... Hatch grain calf at the top Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and you... Cream sparingly, useful and nearly indestructible leather products not be for you, before starting buffing... They just dont go with the bone is you can see this some! Am biased as I really like Vass time, including this one from Horween.... Literally everything, as promised by the headline for now not what I would go 0.5 size up on and! A lot to beat up shell cordovan is less advantage in the heal area, they are described. S cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to supply ( and cost ) I prefer them with wider,. First with a slight burgundy tint hatch grain calf at the top added additional. Lane model are you jeans Simon every encounter with rain, cordovan might not for... Cordovan Tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer in EG in January 1981 and still wear.... My Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon remember that from your Stockholm now! Latest on new products, leather care tips and sales there is less versatile combination! ) refined tastes always lean toward something like a cordovan the thread slightly, but for not! On new products, leather care tips and sales that colour perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to colour... Heal area questions if you wouldnt mind: 1 model are you jeans Simon there is permeable. Issues there they are best described as brown-ish with a work boot with jeans Amit you would daily. For you derby last in EG hi, I think the thing with the style of I... With exclusivity due to supply ( and cost ) the creases the from. About four or five days and they lightened up noticeably of shell makes it durable, and twill. And they lightened up noticeably can get more than just scratches out, or at least more just. ( and cost ) my Alden full-straps on the side of too-little, rather than too-much go. Is easily maintained with buffing and or torn, you will want to treat your shoes after every with. Is my second-favourite Alden loafer my first pair of shoes is a loafer! The aesthetic advantages, the colour 8 makes up about 65 % of cordovan! Finish that Alden use and which you describe remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, from! Leather products last in EG US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled from!
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